Strong evidence

Tretinoin for Melasma

The prescription-strength version of retinol. Same goals (smoother, more even skin), but works faster and is more irritating. Needs a doctor.

Why it works for Melasma

Speeds up how fast your skin sheds its top cells, so cells full of pigment clear out faster. It is the retinoid part of the Kligman triple combination (the most proven melasma regimen). It also works on its own at 0.05 to 0.1 percent, just more slowly than the triple combination.

How Tretinoin works

Active form of vitamin A that binds retinoid receptors directly to normalize keratinization and boost collagen.

Evidence

4 citations from our ingredient database. Full citation list on the Tretinoin ingredient page.

regulatory safety2022

SCCS Revision of the Scientific Opinion on Vitamin A (Retinol, Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate), SCCS/1639/21 (tretinoin is a prescription drug not regulated as cosmetic in EU; vitamin A opinion is the closest regulatory document)

review2010

Darlenski R et al., Topical retinoids in the management of photodamaged skin: from theory to evidence-based practical approach, British Journal of Dermatology 2010 — concludes tretinoin remains the best-evidenced topical retinoid for photodamage management

review2009

Bellemère G et al., Antiaging action of retinol: from molecular to clinical, Skin Pharmacology and Physiology 2009 — mechanism + clinical review linking retinol/tretinoin to collagen induction and clinical antiaging effects

review2006

Mukherjee S et al., Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging, Clinical Interventions in Aging 2006;1(4):327-48

Full Tretinoin guide →Melasma overview →