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Ingredients Exfoliating Citric Acid
101Ci
Tier · Moderate evidence
Exfoliating · Antioxidant

Citric Acid

INCI: Citric Acid · Also called: E330, Anhydrous Citric Acid

A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.

For your skin

A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.

Want the science? Keep reading ↓

Mechanism of action

Tricarboxylic AHA that weakens corneocyte cohesion in the same way as glycolic and lactic acids; included in Van Scott's landmark 25%-AHA study (glycolic, lactic, citric) that drove ~25% epidermal thickening over 6 months. Its antioxidant effect derives from chelating transition metal ions that catalyse free-radical reactions. In modern formulations it is more commonly used at low concentrations as a pH adjuster and preservative-system booster than as a primary exfoliant, where glycolic and lactic acids are more potent at equivalent pH.

Why we tier this moderate

4 cited papers across 3 countries. The mechanism is well-described and there's at least one controlled trial in the literature, but we tier this Moderate rather than Strong to stay honest about how many specific papers we cite directly.

2
United States
1
Taiwan
1
Japan

Cited research

🇹🇼

Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863.

🇯🇵

Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. Journal of Dermatology. 2006 Jan;33(1):16-22. — Clinical-mechanistic study in Japanese subjects demonstrating AHA (including citric acid class) keratolytic and epidermal renewal effects as rationale for chemical peeling.

🇺🇸

Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, et al. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery. 1997 Aug;23(8):689-694. — Mechanistic study showing topical citric acid increased viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans in sun-damaged skin, similar to glycolic acid and retinoic acid.

1997Mechanism onlyPMID:9256916View source ↗
🇺🇸

Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, Sueki H, Telegan B, Johnson WC, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996;34(2 Pt 1):187-95.

1996Positive (efficacy)PMID:8642081View source ↗

Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.