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Shop Paula's Choice Calm Rescue & Repair Intensive Moisturizer
Moisturizer
Paula's Choice

Calm Rescue & Repair Intensive Moisturizer

~$42

What it's good for

Key actives from our research database. Click any to read the full evidence dossier.

  • AllantoinAnecdotal evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A gentle smoother and skin-soother. Reduces flakiness and helps the surface look more even.

    Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Hydrating

  • ArgirelineModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    Sometimes called "topical Botox," it's a peptide that subtly reduces the depth of expression lines around the eyes and forehead when used daily over months. Mild effect, but real.

    Good for: Anti-aging

  • Citric AcidModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.

    Good for: Exfoliating, Antioxidant

  • GlycerinModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

    Good for: Hydrating

  • Vitamin EModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A workhorse antioxidant that defends your skin from daily oxidative damage. Pairs especially well with vitamin C, and it's in nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

    Good for: Antioxidant

New to this? Patch test on your inner arm for 24 to 48 hours before applying to your face. If you have sensitive skin or rosacea, start 2 to 3 times per week and build up slowly.

Evidence behind the ingredients

Real citations from our research database, one per tracked active in this product. Click any ingredient name to read its full evidence dossier.

AllantoinAnecdotal evidence6 citations

A gentle smoother and skin-soother. Reduces flakiness and helps the surface look more even.

Xu Z et al., Efficacy and Safety of Topical Compound Heparin Sodium Allantoin Gel for the Treatment of Rosacea, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(4):e70129 — RCT (n=82, 12 weeks): allantoin gel improved erythema and alleviated itching/burning vs traditional therapy

2025Positive (efficacy)PMID:40177799View source ↗

Tan C et al., The combination of allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate mitigates UVB-induced PGE2 synthesis by keratinocytes, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2024;46(5):691-701 — in vitro: allantoin combination reduced UVB-induced PGE2, IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, TNFα

2024Mechanism onlyPMID:38433250View source ↗

Saucedo-Acuna RA et al. (Mexico), Characterization and In Vivo Assay of Allantoin-Enriched Pectin Hydrogel for the Treatment of Skin Wounds, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2023;24(8):7377 — allantoin-pectin hydrogel reduced wound healing time by ~71% with complete closure at day 15 in rat model

2023Mechanism onlyPMID:37108540View source ↗
ArgirelineModerate evidence6 citations

Sometimes called "topical Botox," it's a peptide that subtly reduces the depth of expression lines around the eyes and forehead when used daily over months. Mild effect, but real.

Zhu M et al., The effect of a serum containing acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate and gluconolactone on skin biomarkers, wrinkles and skin texture: ex vivo and clinical studies, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2026 — two clinical trials (n=50, n=42) showed 35-69% static wrinkle improvement and significant elastic fiber and collagen biomarker increases at 12 weeks

2026Positive (efficacy)PMID:41668671View source ↗

Zdrada-Nowak J, Surgiel-Gemza A, Szatkowska M, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in Cosmeceuticals: A Review of Skin Permeability and Efficacy, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2025

2025InconclusivePMID:40565185View source ↗

Henseler H, Investigating the effects of Argireline in a skin serum containing hyaluronic acids on skin surface wrinkles using the Visia Complexion Analysis camera system, GMS Interdisciplinary Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery DGPW 2023;12:Doc09 — topical argireline serum reduced measured surface wrinkles

2023Positive (efficacy)PMID:38024099View source ↗
Citric AcidModerate evidence4 citations

A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.

Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863.

2018Mechanism onlyPMC:PMC6017965View source ↗

Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. Journal of Dermatology. 2006 Jan;33(1):16-22. — Clinical-mechanistic study in Japanese subjects demonstrating AHA (including citric acid class) keratolytic and epidermal renewal effects as rationale for chemical peeling.

2006Mechanism onlyPMID:16469079View source ↗

Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, et al. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery. 1997 Aug;23(8):689-694. — Mechanistic study showing topical citric acid increased viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans in sun-damaged skin, similar to glycolic acid and retinoic acid.

1997Mechanism onlyPMID:9256916View source ↗
+2 more ingredients
GlycerinModerate evidence6 citations

A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

Danby SG et al., Different types of emollient cream exhibit diverse physiological effects on the skin barrier in adults with atopic dermatitis, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 2022;47(6):1154-1164 — glycerol+urea emollient delivered superior barrier-strengthening and irritant protection

2022Positive (efficacy)PMID:35167133View source ↗

Youssef R et al., Glycerol 85% efficacy on atopic skin and its microbiome: a randomized controlled trial, Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2021;32(7):730-736 — topical glycerol 85% RCT on atopic skin

2021Positive (efficacy)PMID:31869257View source ↗

Evans NJ et al., Human axillary skin condition is improved following incorporation of glycerol into the stratum corneum from an antiperspirant formulation, Archives of Dermatological Research 2017;309(9):739-748 — 4% glycerol penetrated axillary SC, reduced irritation, improved hydration

2017Positive (efficacy)PMID:28889318View source ↗
Vitamin EModerate evidence6 citations

A workhorse antioxidant that defends your skin from daily oxidative damage. Pairs especially well with vitamin C, and it's in nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

Neves JR et al., Efficacy of a topical serum containing L-ascorbic acid, neohesperidin, pycnogenol, tocopherol, and hyaluronic acid in relation to skin aging signs, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2022;21(10):4462-4469 — tocopherol-containing antioxidant serum reduced pollution-induced damage and improved aging signs

2022Positive (efficacy)PMID:35150043View source ↗

Warshaw EM et al., Patch Testing With Tocopherol and Tocopherol Acetate: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience, 2001 to 2016, Dermatitis 2021;32(5):308-318 — 15-year NACDG data: positive patch-test reactions to tocopherol rare given widespread cosmetic use

2021Safety assessmentPMID:34238818View source ↗

Lin FH et al., Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin, Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2005;125(4):826-832 — ferulic acid + vit C + vit E combo doubled photoprotection vs C+E alone (cross-listed; same paper cited for Ferulic Acid and Vit C)

2005Positive (efficacy)PMID:16185284View source ↗

Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.

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