Deep Dive AHA + PHA Exfoliating Mask
What it's good for
Key actives from our research database. Click any to read the full evidence dossier.
A gentle smoother and skin-soother. Reduces flakiness and helps the surface look more even.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Hydrating
Calms redness, fades acne marks, and clears bumps, all without aggravating sensitive skin. Pregnancy-safe.
Good for: Anti-acne, Brightening, Anti-inflammatory
A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.
Good for: Exfoliating, Antioxidant
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Good for: Hydrating
Exfoliates the surface of your skin to smooth rough texture and fade dullness. The strongest of the AHAs, so start slow.
Good for: Exfoliating
A gentler exfoliator that also hydrates as it works. Good entry point if you have sensitive skin and want to try acids.
Good for: Exfoliating, Hydrating
The slowest, gentlest exfoliating acid. Resurfaces with the least irritation, especially friendly to sensitive and deeper skin tones.
Good for: Exfoliating
The mildest exfoliating acid. Refines texture and hydrates at the same time, and it's sensitive-skin friendly.
Good for: Exfoliating, Hydrating
A workhorse antioxidant that defends your skin from daily oxidative damage. Pairs especially well with vitamin C, and it's in nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Good for: Antioxidant
Evidence behind the ingredients
Real citations from our research database, one per tracked active in this product. Click any ingredient name to read its full evidence dossier.
A gentle smoother and skin-soother. Reduces flakiness and helps the surface look more even.
Xu Z et al., Efficacy and Safety of Topical Compound Heparin Sodium Allantoin Gel for the Treatment of Rosacea, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(4):e70129 — RCT (n=82, 12 weeks): allantoin gel improved erythema and alleviated itching/burning vs traditional therapy
Tan C et al., The combination of allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate mitigates UVB-induced PGE2 synthesis by keratinocytes, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2024;46(5):691-701 — in vitro: allantoin combination reduced UVB-induced PGE2, IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, TNFα
Saucedo-Acuna RA et al. (Mexico), Characterization and In Vivo Assay of Allantoin-Enriched Pectin Hydrogel for the Treatment of Skin Wounds, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2023;24(8):7377 — allantoin-pectin hydrogel reduced wound healing time by ~71% with complete closure at day 15 in rat model
Calms redness, fades acne marks, and clears bumps, all without aggravating sensitive skin. Pregnancy-safe.
Petrovici AG et al., A Comprehensive Review of Azelaic Acid Pharmacological Properties, Clinical Applications, and Innovative Topical Formulations, Pharmaceuticals (Basel) 2025
Feng Y et al., Azelaic Acid: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2024;17:2359-2371 — antibacterial, anti-keratinizing, antimelanogenic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory; FDA-approved for papulopustular rosacea
King A et al., A systematic review to evaluate the efficacy of azelaic acid in the management of acne, rosacea, melasma and skin aging, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2023;22(10):2650-2662 — azelaic acid more effective than vehicle for rosacea, acne, and melasma; aging evidence limited
A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.
Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863.
Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. Journal of Dermatology. 2006 Jan;33(1):16-22. — Clinical-mechanistic study in Japanese subjects demonstrating AHA (including citric acid class) keratolytic and epidermal renewal effects as rationale for chemical peeling.
Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, et al. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery. 1997 Aug;23(8):689-694. — Mechanistic study showing topical citric acid increased viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans in sun-damaged skin, similar to glycolic acid and retinoic acid.
+−6 more ingredients
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Danby SG et al., Different types of emollient cream exhibit diverse physiological effects on the skin barrier in adults with atopic dermatitis, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 2022;47(6):1154-1164 — glycerol+urea emollient delivered superior barrier-strengthening and irritant protection
Youssef R et al., Glycerol 85% efficacy on atopic skin and its microbiome: a randomized controlled trial, Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2021;32(7):730-736 — topical glycerol 85% RCT on atopic skin
Evans NJ et al., Human axillary skin condition is improved following incorporation of glycerol into the stratum corneum from an antiperspirant formulation, Archives of Dermatological Research 2017;309(9):739-748 — 4% glycerol penetrated axillary SC, reduced irritation, improved hydration
Exfoliates the surface of your skin to smooth rough texture and fade dullness. The strongest of the AHAs, so start slow.
Liu H et al., Topical agents for acne (covers AHA / fruit-acid arm), Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2020;5:CD011368 — conclusion: clinical benefit is unclear
Sarkar R et al., Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic-Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasma, Dermatologic Surgery 2016;42(3):384-391 — 35% glycolic acid and salicylic-mandelic peels equally effective and safe for melasma in Indian skin
Kubiak M et al., Evaluation of 70% glycolic peels versus 15% trichloroacetic peels for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin in aging women, Dermatologic Surgery 2014;40(8):883-891 — both peels improved photodamaged skin; glycolic acid showed faster hydration recovery
A gentler exfoliator that also hydrates as it works. Good entry point if you have sensitive skin and want to try acids.
Fanning N et al., Treatment of mild-to-moderate facial cutaneous aging using a combination peel containing 6% trichloroacetic acid and 12% lactic acid, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2023;22(11):3033-3041 — three monthly peels significantly improved clarity, pigmentation, fine lines, roughness in 32 subjects
Tang SC, Yang JH, Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin, Molecules 2018;23(4):863 — effect concentration-dependent
Babilas P et al., Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids, JDDG: Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft 2012 — supports AHAs including lactic acid for photoaging, pigmentation, and barrier effects
The slowest, gentlest exfoliating acid. Resurfaces with the least irritation, especially friendly to sensitive and deeper skin tones.
Ravikumar P et al., Efficacy of Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acid Chemical Peels in Postacne Pigmentation, Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 2022 — mandelic-acid-containing peels improved postacne hyperpigmentation in a randomized comparison
Dayal S et al., Comparative study of efficacy and safety of 45% mandelic acid versus 30% salicylic acid peels in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2020 — 45% mandelic acid peels comparably effective and better tolerated than 30% salicylic peels
Sarkar R et al., Comparative study of 35% glycolic acid, 20% salicylic-10% mandelic acid, and phytic acid combination peels in the treatment of active acne, Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery 2019;12(3):158-163
The mildest exfoliating acid. Refines texture and hydrates at the same time, and it's sensitive-skin friendly.
Peng Y et al., Comparison of Efficacy and Willingness to a 5% Gluconolactone-Based Topical Serum and Intense Pulsed Light in Mild Erythema of Rosacea: A Paired Control Study, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(3):e70025 — 5% gluconolactone serum improved erythema and moisturization over 30 days
Kantikosum K et al., The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris, Clinical Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2019;12:151-161 — gluconolactone cosmeceutical added benefit on top of adapalene without hindering treatment
Edison BL et al., A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen, Cutis 2004;73(2 Suppl):14-17 — 12-week PHA regimen matched AHA antiaging benefits with significantly less stinging/burning
A workhorse antioxidant that defends your skin from daily oxidative damage. Pairs especially well with vitamin C, and it's in nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Neves JR et al., Efficacy of a topical serum containing L-ascorbic acid, neohesperidin, pycnogenol, tocopherol, and hyaluronic acid in relation to skin aging signs, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2022;21(10):4462-4469 — tocopherol-containing antioxidant serum reduced pollution-induced damage and improved aging signs
Warshaw EM et al., Patch Testing With Tocopherol and Tocopherol Acetate: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience, 2001 to 2016, Dermatitis 2021;32(5):308-318 — 15-year NACDG data: positive patch-test reactions to tocopherol rare given widespread cosmetic use
Lin FH et al., Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin, Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2005;125(4):826-832 — ferulic acid + vit C + vit E combo doubled photoprotection vs C+E alone (cross-listed; same paper cited for Ferulic Acid and Vit C)
Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.
Layering conflicts
Ingredients in this product that can react with common actives. Avoid stacking unless noted.
- Retinolhigh
Retinol + glycolic acid is a classic barrier-buster. Use on different nights.
- Tretinoinhigh
Tretinoin + glycolic acid causes significant barrier disruption. Never layer.
- Adapalenemedium
Adapalene + glycolic acid can over-exfoliate. Alternate nights.
- Salicylic Acidmedium
AHA + BHA stacking risks over-exfoliation. Use a pre-formulated AHA/BHA product or alternate days.
Similar comparisons
Not medical advice. GlowPal is educational. Patch-test new products and talk to a qualified healthcare professional before changing your routine, especially if you're pregnant, nursing, or have a diagnosed skin condition. See our terms.