Renew Serum
What it's good for
Key actives from our research database. Click any to read the full evidence dossier.
A gentle smoother and skin-soother. Reduces flakiness and helps the surface look more even.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Hydrating
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Good for: Hydrating
Exfoliates the surface of your skin to smooth rough texture and fade dullness. The strongest of the AHAs, so start slow.
Good for: Exfoliating
An ancient humectant and antimicrobial ingredient with a long research track record. Its sugar matrix and flavonoids help draw in moisture and support skin comfort; formulas pairing honey with beeswax and olive oil have shown improvement in dry, irritation-prone skin in controlled trials.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Anti-acne, Hydrating
A multitasker that calms redness, evens out skin tone, and helps oily skin balance out. One of the safest do-a-little-of-everything ingredients.
Good for: Brightening, Barrier repair, Anti-inflammatory
Pro-vitamin B5. Deeply hydrates and helps repair the skin barrier, calming dry or compromised skin.
Good for: Hydrating, Barrier repair
Speeds up how fast your skin renews itself so old, dull cells shed faster and fresher skin shows through. Builds collagen over time, smoothing fine lines.
Good for: Anti-aging
Goes into your pores and dissolves the oil and dead skin clogging them. Best for blackheads, whiteheads, and oily, acne-prone skin.
Good for: Anti-acne, Exfoliating
A botanical astringent backed by real anti-inflammatory evidence. Extracts genuinely calm acne-related inflammation by blocking the same NF-κB pathway that redness-causing cytokines depend on. Honest caveat: most shelf-ready witch hazel toners are distilled water with trace tannin; look for "Hamamelis virginiana extract" rather than "hamamelis water" on the label if you want the active fraction.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Anti-acne
Evidence behind the ingredients
Real citations from our research database, one per tracked active in this product. Click any ingredient name to read its full evidence dossier.
A gentle smoother and skin-soother. Reduces flakiness and helps the surface look more even.
Xu Z et al., Efficacy and Safety of Topical Compound Heparin Sodium Allantoin Gel for the Treatment of Rosacea, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(4):e70129 — RCT (n=82, 12 weeks): allantoin gel improved erythema and alleviated itching/burning vs traditional therapy
Tan C et al., The combination of allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate mitigates UVB-induced PGE2 synthesis by keratinocytes, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2024;46(5):691-701 — in vitro: allantoin combination reduced UVB-induced PGE2, IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, TNFα
Saucedo-Acuna RA et al. (Mexico), Characterization and In Vivo Assay of Allantoin-Enriched Pectin Hydrogel for the Treatment of Skin Wounds, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2023;24(8):7377 — allantoin-pectin hydrogel reduced wound healing time by ~71% with complete closure at day 15 in rat model
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Danby SG et al., Different types of emollient cream exhibit diverse physiological effects on the skin barrier in adults with atopic dermatitis, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 2022;47(6):1154-1164 — glycerol+urea emollient delivered superior barrier-strengthening and irritant protection
Youssef R et al., Glycerol 85% efficacy on atopic skin and its microbiome: a randomized controlled trial, Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2021;32(7):730-736 — topical glycerol 85% RCT on atopic skin
Evans NJ et al., Human axillary skin condition is improved following incorporation of glycerol into the stratum corneum from an antiperspirant formulation, Archives of Dermatological Research 2017;309(9):739-748 — 4% glycerol penetrated axillary SC, reduced irritation, improved hydration
Exfoliates the surface of your skin to smooth rough texture and fade dullness. The strongest of the AHAs, so start slow.
Liu H et al., Topical agents for acne (covers AHA / fruit-acid arm), Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2020;5:CD011368 — conclusion: clinical benefit is unclear
Sarkar R et al., Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic-Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasma, Dermatologic Surgery 2016;42(3):384-391 — 35% glycolic acid and salicylic-mandelic peels equally effective and safe for melasma in Indian skin
Kubiak M et al., Evaluation of 70% glycolic peels versus 15% trichloroacetic peels for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin in aging women, Dermatologic Surgery 2014;40(8):883-891 — both peels improved photodamaged skin; glycolic acid showed faster hydration recovery
+−6 more ingredients
An ancient humectant and antimicrobial ingredient with a long research track record. Its sugar matrix and flavonoids help draw in moisture and support skin comfort; formulas pairing honey with beeswax and olive oil have shown improvement in dry, irritation-prone skin in controlled trials.
Semprini A, Braithwaite I, Corin A, et al. Randomised controlled trial of topical kanuka honey for the treatment of acne. BMJ Open. 2016 Feb 1;6(2):e009448. — RCT: kanuka honey + antibacterial soap was NOT significantly more effective than antibacterial soap alone for acne; primary endpoint not met.
Jull AB, Cullum N, Dumville JC, Westby MJ, Deshpande S, Walker N. Honey as a topical treatment for wounds. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2015;(3):CD005083.
Mandal MD, Mandal S. Honey: its medicinal property and antibacterial activity. Asian Pac J Trop Biomed. 2011;1(2):154-160.
A multitasker that calms redness, evens out skin tone, and helps oily skin balance out. One of the safest do-a-little-of-everything ingredients.
Moro F et al., Skin Cancer Prevention and Antiaging: Role of Nicotinamide, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2026
Passeron T et al., An Investigator-Blinded, Randomized Trial of a Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen Containing Sclareolide and Niacinamide, Dermatology and Therapy (Heidelberg) 2026
Vergilio MM et al., Topical Formulation with Niacinamide Combined with 5 MHz Ultrasound for Improving Skin Ageing, Current Medicinal Chemistry 2025
Pro-vitamin B5. Deeply hydrates and helps repair the skin barrier, calming dry or compromised skin.
Gao Y et al., Evaluation of the Efficacy and Safety of a Panthenol-Enriched Mask for Skin Barrier Recovery After Facial Laser Treatment, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(7):e70223 — double-blind RCT (n=60): panthenol mask decreased erythema, enhanced hydration, repaired barrier vs saline
Cho YS et al., Use of Dexpanthenol for Atopic Dermatitis-Benefits and Recommendations Based on Current Evidence, Journal of Clinical Medicine 2022;11(14):3943 — Korean-authored review; dexpanthenol improves barrier and reduces severity in mild-to-moderate AD
Heise R et al., Accelerated wound healing with a dexpanthenol-containing ointment after fractional ablative CO2 laser resurfacing of photo-damaged skin in a randomized prospective clinical trial, Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology 2019;38(3):274-278 — RCT: dexpanthenol significantly faster wound closure vs petroleum jelly post-laser
Speeds up how fast your skin renews itself so old, dull cells shed faster and fresher skin shows through. Builds collagen over time, smoothing fine lines.
SCCS Revision of the Scientific Opinion on Vitamin A (Retinol, Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate), SCCS/1639/21, final version adopted 24-25 October 2022
Chien AL et al. Biomarkers of Tretinoin Precursors and Tretinoin Efficacy in Patients With Moderate to Severe Facial Photodamage: A Randomized Clinical Trial. JAMA Dermatology. 2022;158(8):892-900. doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2022.1891 — RCT comparing topical retinol precursors vs tretinoin for photoaging; both showed equivalent wrinkle reduction at week 24 with retinol formulation causing 6x less erythema than tretinoin.
MFDS Approved Functional Cosmetic Active — Retinol (anti-wrinkle). Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, Cosmetic Functional Active Ingredient List — listed alongside Adenosine, Retinyl Palmitate, and Polyethoxylated Retinamide in the Korean Functional Cosmetics Codex anti-wrinkle category
Goes into your pores and dissolves the oil and dead skin clogging them. Best for blackheads, whiteheads, and oily, acne-prone skin.
Liu Y et al., Clinical Efficacy of a Salicylic Acid-Containing Gel on Acne Management and Skin Barrier Function: A 21-Day Prospective Study, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(7):e70353 — salicylic acid gel reduced acne lesions, regulated sebum, improved hydration and barrier function
Ye R et al., 2% supramolecular salicylic acid hydrogel vs. adapalene gel in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: multicenter, randomized, evaluator-blind, parallel-controlled trial, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2024;23(6):2125-2134 — 2% SSA hydrogel was equally effective as adapalene gel for mild-to-moderate acne
Brumley C et al. Allergic contact dermatitis to salicylic acid: A case series of relevant sensitization. Contact Dermatitis. 2024;91(2):133-138. doi:10.1111/cod.14573 — Case series of 489 patch-tested patients (2020-2024): 21 positive reactions to salicylic acid. Documents that ACD to SA is likely underreported; testing at 5% concentration feasible.
A botanical astringent backed by real anti-inflammatory evidence. Extracts genuinely calm acne-related inflammation by blocking the same NF-κB pathway that redness-causing cytokines depend on. Honest caveat: most shelf-ready witch hazel toners are distilled water with trace tannin; look for "Hamamelis virginiana extract" rather than "hamamelis water" on the label if you want the active fraction.
Liu X, Hage TW, Chen LC, Wang EHC, Liao IC, Goldberg J, et al. Revealing the Therapeutic Potential: Investigating the Impact of a Novel Witch Hazel Formula on Anti-Inflammation and Antioxidation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2025 Feb. — Clinical evaluation of a novel witch hazel formula demonstrating anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects on skin.
Wojciak M, Pacuła W, Sowa I, Feldo M, Graczyk F, Załuski D. Hamamelis virginiana L. in Skin Care: A Review of Its Pharmacological Properties and Cosmetological Applications. Molecules. 2025 Jun 26;30(13):2744. — Narrative review of pharmacological properties and skin care applications of Hamamelis virginiana.
Piazza S, Martinelli G, Vrhovsek U, Masuero D, Fumagalli M, Magnavacca A, et al. Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Acne Effects of Hamamelis virginiana Bark in Human Keratinocytes. Antioxidants. 2022;11(6):1119.
Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.
Layering conflicts
Ingredients in this product that can react with common actives. Avoid stacking unless noted.
- Tretinoinhigh
Tretinoin + glycolic acid causes significant barrier disruption. Never layer.
- Adapalenemedium
Adapalene + glycolic acid can over-exfoliate. Alternate nights.
- Lactic Acidmedium
Retinol + lactic acid is gentler than glycolic but still alternate nights to be safe.
- Mandelic Acidmedium
Retinol + mandelic acid — alternate nights to preserve barrier integrity.
- Benzoyl Peroxidemedium
Benzoyl peroxide can break down retinol. Use one in the morning and the other at night, or pick a stabilized formula made to combine them.
- Vitamin Clow
Vitamin C and retinol work best at different pH levels. Use vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night.
Similar comparisons
Not medical advice. GlowPal is educational. Patch-test new products and talk to a qualified healthcare professional before changing your routine, especially if you're pregnant, nursing, or have a diagnosed skin condition. See our terms.