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Shop QMS Medicosmetics Ace Vitamin Day And Night Cream
Moisturizer
QMS Medicosmetics

Ace Vitamin Day And Night Cream

~$175

What it's good for

Key actives from our research database. Click any to read the full evidence dossier.

  • Citric AcidModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.

    Good for: Exfoliating, Antioxidant

  • DimethiconeStrong evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A silicone that sits on your skin as an invisible, non-greasy shield. Reduces water loss, protects against irritants (think soap, friction, incontinence), and is FDA-recognised as a skin protectant from 1-30%. The reason your favourite primer feels silky and your barrier cream actually works under makeup.

    Good for: Barrier repair, Hydrating

  • GlycerinModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

    Good for: Hydrating

  • HoneyModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    An ancient humectant and antimicrobial ingredient with a long research track record. Its sugar matrix and flavonoids help draw in moisture and support skin comfort; formulas pairing honey with beeswax and olive oil have shown improvement in dry, irritation-prone skin in controlled trials.

    Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Anti-acne, Hydrating

  • PanthenolModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    Pro-vitamin B5. Deeply hydrates and helps repair the skin barrier, calming dry or compromised skin.

    Good for: Hydrating, Barrier repair

  • Vitamin CStrong evidenceFull dossier ↗

    Brightens dull skin and helps fade dark spots. Also defends against everyday UV and pollution damage when worn under sunscreen.

    Good for: Brightening, Antioxidant

  • Vitamin EModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A workhorse antioxidant that defends your skin from daily oxidative damage. Pairs especially well with vitamin C, and it's in nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

    Good for: Antioxidant

New to this? Patch test on your inner arm for 24 to 48 hours before applying to your face. If you have sensitive skin or rosacea, start 2 to 3 times per week and build up slowly.

Evidence behind the ingredients

Real citations from our research database, one per tracked active in this product. Click any ingredient name to read its full evidence dossier.

Citric AcidModerate evidence4 citations

A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.

Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863.

2018Mechanism onlyPMC:PMC6017965View source ↗

Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. Journal of Dermatology. 2006 Jan;33(1):16-22. — Clinical-mechanistic study in Japanese subjects demonstrating AHA (including citric acid class) keratolytic and epidermal renewal effects as rationale for chemical peeling.

2006Mechanism onlyPMID:16469079View source ↗

Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, et al. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery. 1997 Aug;23(8):689-694. — Mechanistic study showing topical citric acid increased viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans in sun-damaged skin, similar to glycolic acid and retinoic acid.

1997Mechanism onlyPMID:9256916View source ↗
DimethiconeStrong evidence5 citations

A silicone that sits on your skin as an invisible, non-greasy shield. Reduces water loss, protects against irritants (think soap, friction, incontinence), and is FDA-recognised as a skin protectant from 1-30%. The reason your favourite primer feels silky and your barrier cream actually works under makeup.

Beeckman D, Verhaeghe S, Defloor T, et al. A 3-in-1 perineal care washcloth impregnated with dimethicone 3% versus water and pH neutral soap to prevent and treat incontinence-associated dermatitis: a randomized, controlled clinical trial. J Wound Ostomy Continence Nurs. 2011;38(6):627-634.

2011Positive (efficacy)PMID:21952346View source ↗

Saary J, Qureshi R, Palda V, et al. A systematic review of contact dermatitis treatment and prevention. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005;53(5):845-855. (Barrier creams containing dimethicone prevent irritant contact dermatitis.)

2005Meta-analysis (positive)PMID:16243136View source ↗

FDA OTC Final Monograph, 21 CFR Part 347 — Skin Protectant Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use; dimethicone listed at section 347.10 as a Category I active ingredient at 1-30%.

2003Regulatory approval21CFR347.10View source ↗
GlycerinModerate evidence6 citations

A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

Danby SG et al., Different types of emollient cream exhibit diverse physiological effects on the skin barrier in adults with atopic dermatitis, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 2022;47(6):1154-1164 — glycerol+urea emollient delivered superior barrier-strengthening and irritant protection

2022Positive (efficacy)PMID:35167133View source ↗

Youssef R et al., Glycerol 85% efficacy on atopic skin and its microbiome: a randomized controlled trial, Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2021;32(7):730-736 — topical glycerol 85% RCT on atopic skin

2021Positive (efficacy)PMID:31869257View source ↗

Evans NJ et al., Human axillary skin condition is improved following incorporation of glycerol into the stratum corneum from an antiperspirant formulation, Archives of Dermatological Research 2017;309(9):739-748 — 4% glycerol penetrated axillary SC, reduced irritation, improved hydration

2017Positive (efficacy)PMID:28889318View source ↗
+4 more ingredients
HoneyModerate evidence5 citations

An ancient humectant and antimicrobial ingredient with a long research track record. Its sugar matrix and flavonoids help draw in moisture and support skin comfort; formulas pairing honey with beeswax and olive oil have shown improvement in dry, irritation-prone skin in controlled trials.

Semprini A, Braithwaite I, Corin A, et al. Randomised controlled trial of topical kanuka honey for the treatment of acne. BMJ Open. 2016 Feb 1;6(2):e009448. — RCT: kanuka honey + antibacterial soap was NOT significantly more effective than antibacterial soap alone for acne; primary endpoint not met.

2016InconclusivePMID:26832428View source ↗

Jull AB, Cullum N, Dumville JC, Westby MJ, Deshpande S, Walker N. Honey as a topical treatment for wounds. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2015;(3):CD005083.

2015Meta-analysis (mixed)PMID:25742878View source ↗

Mandal MD, Mandal S. Honey: its medicinal property and antibacterial activity. Asian Pac J Trop Biomed. 2011;1(2):154-160.

2011Mechanism onlyPMID:23569748View source ↗
PanthenolModerate evidence5 citations

Pro-vitamin B5. Deeply hydrates and helps repair the skin barrier, calming dry or compromised skin.

Gao Y et al., Evaluation of the Efficacy and Safety of a Panthenol-Enriched Mask for Skin Barrier Recovery After Facial Laser Treatment, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(7):e70223 — double-blind RCT (n=60): panthenol mask decreased erythema, enhanced hydration, repaired barrier vs saline

2025Positive (efficacy)PMID:40613435View source ↗

Cho YS et al., Use of Dexpanthenol for Atopic Dermatitis-Benefits and Recommendations Based on Current Evidence, Journal of Clinical Medicine 2022;11(14):3943 — Korean-authored review; dexpanthenol improves barrier and reduces severity in mild-to-moderate AD

2022Meta-analysis (positive)PMID:35887707View source ↗

Heise R et al., Accelerated wound healing with a dexpanthenol-containing ointment after fractional ablative CO2 laser resurfacing of photo-damaged skin in a randomized prospective clinical trial, Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology 2019;38(3):274-278 — RCT: dexpanthenol significantly faster wound closure vs petroleum jelly post-laser

2019Positive (efficacy)PMID:30897983View source ↗
Vitamin CStrong evidence15 citations

Brightens dull skin and helps fade dark spots. Also defends against everyday UV and pollution damage when worn under sunscreen.

Krutmann J et al. PINGing Sunshine: A Review of the Evidence for Adding Non-Filtering Photoprotective Ingredients to Sunscreens. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2025;41(6). — Review of Photoprotective INGredients (PINGs); L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) identified as a top-ranked PING demonstrating efficacy across multiple photodamage endpoints.

2025Meta-analysis (positive)PMID:41152208View source ↗

Pullar JM et al., The roles of vitamin C in skin health, Nutrients 2017;9(8):866 — concluded topical efficacy "poorly understood"; supports dietary vitamin C

2017Mechanism onlyPMID:28805671View source ↗

Lee JH et al., Effects of VitabridC12 on Skin Inflammation, Annals of Dermatology 2017

2017Mechanism onlyPMID:28966510View source ↗
Vitamin EModerate evidence6 citations

A workhorse antioxidant that defends your skin from daily oxidative damage. Pairs especially well with vitamin C, and it's in nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

Neves JR et al., Efficacy of a topical serum containing L-ascorbic acid, neohesperidin, pycnogenol, tocopherol, and hyaluronic acid in relation to skin aging signs, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2022;21(10):4462-4469 — tocopherol-containing antioxidant serum reduced pollution-induced damage and improved aging signs

2022Positive (efficacy)PMID:35150043View source ↗

Warshaw EM et al., Patch Testing With Tocopherol and Tocopherol Acetate: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience, 2001 to 2016, Dermatitis 2021;32(5):308-318 — 15-year NACDG data: positive patch-test reactions to tocopherol rare given widespread cosmetic use

2021Safety assessmentPMID:34238818View source ↗

Lin FH et al., Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin, Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2005;125(4):826-832 — ferulic acid + vit C + vit E combo doubled photoprotection vs C+E alone (cross-listed; same paper cited for Ferulic Acid and Vit C)

2005Positive (efficacy)PMID:16185284View source ↗

Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.

Layering conflicts

Ingredients in this product that can react with common actives. Avoid stacking unless noted.

  • Benzoyl peroxide breaks down vitamin C, making both less effective. Use one in the morning and the other at night.

  • Vitamin C and retinol work best at different pH levels. Use vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night.

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